The Lake District travel guide

A comprehensive guide to the Lake District with advice on hotels, restaurants, walks and local pubs, written by our expert Oliver Berry.

Why go?

For Britain’s finest scenery, greenest countryside and grandest views. Covering a total area of just over 885 square miles, the Lake District National Park has been protected since 1951, and its picturesque patchwork of lakes, valleys, woodlands and fells make it one of the best places in Britain to get out and experience the great outdoors, whether it’s on a leisurely bike ride down country lanes or a day-long hike across the hills. And while the weather is notoriously unpredictable (locals will tell you that it’s not unusual to experience all four seasons in a single day), showers and racing clouds only emphasise the grandeur of the magnificent scenery.

The Lake District also has numerous artistic and literary connections, most famously William Wordsworth, who was born in Cockermouth in 1770 and drew much of his poetic inspiration from the surrounding landscape. Other poets, writers and painters followed, including John Ruskin, Beatrix Potter, Arthur Ransome and Alfred Wainwright, author of the classic Pictorial Guides to the Lakeland Fells.

When to go

The worst of the rainfall is usually reserved for the beginning and end of winter, but heavy showers can strike in the Lake District at practically any time of year. Heavy snow is common in midwinter, especially between November and February, when some rural roads become impassable.

The busiest season is between June and August, when prices rocket, car-parks are packed and traffic jams are frequent. Better to visit in the shoulder months: in April and May, when the weather is generally settled and sunny, or in September and October, when the woodlands blaze with autumnal colour.

Getting there

By air

The nearest airport to the Lake District is Manchester (www.manchesterairport.co.uk), which has domestic connections to major cities including London, Edinburgh and Bristol. 

By train

Direct trains run to Windermere and Kendal along the branch line from Oxenholme, which links up with mainline services on the west coast serving London and Glasgow. Single fares from London start at around £69 via thetrainline.com.

By car

The M6 motorway runs just to the east of the Lake District. Turn off at either Kendal (Junction 37) or Penrith (Junction 40) for the quickest access to the national park. Traffic permitting, the journey time from London is around five to six hours.

Getting around

Bus

Cumbria has a good bus service between the main towns, although services are scarcer once you get into more rural areas. The most regular service is the 555 Lakeslink, which runs at least a couple of times an hour and stops at Windermere, Troutbeck, Ambleside and Grasmere. For timetables and information, contact Cumbria County Council (cumbria.gov.uk) or Traveline (www.travelinenortheast.info).

The useful Cross Lakes Experience (www.lakedistrict.gov.uk/crosslakes) enables you to explore the countryside around Windermere, Grizedale and Coniston using a mix of boats, buses and minibuses. 

The service runs from March to October; return fares from Coniston to Windermere currently cost £18.60, or £52.70 for a family ticket (two adults and up to three children).

A new "bike and ride" service, run by Stagecoach Cumbria (timetable PDF, standard fare plus £1.50 for a bike for the day), will take cyclists and mountain bikers on specially converted bike buses from Windermere Railway Station through Ambleside, Grasmere and Keswick to the Whinlatter Forest visitor Centre.

Train

Apart from the branch-line between Oxenholme and Windermere, there are no mainline trains inside the national park, but there are several scenic railways, including the Lakeside & Haverthwaite Steam Railway (www.lakesiderailway.co.uk) between Haverthwaite and Newby Bridge, and the Ravenglass and Eskdale Railway (www.ravenglass-railway.co.uk, known locally as La’al Ratty) which chugs through the picturesque Eskdale valley.

Two useful lines also run around the Cumbrian coast, just outside the national park, stopping at towns including Grange-over-Sands, Ulverston, Barrow-in-Furness, Ravenglass and Whitehaven. 

The Furness Line travels from Leeds/Manchester/Lancaster to Barrow, and is operated by First Trans Pennine Express (tpexpress.co.uk). The Cumbrian Coast Line travels from Barrow round to Carlisle, and is run by Northern Rail (www.northernrail.org).

Boat

There are cruise boat services on Windermere, Coniston Water, Derwentwater and Ullswater. Most stop at various points around the lake, allowing you to get off at one jetty and walk to the next.

A car & passenger ferry chugs across Windermere from the lake’s east side near Bowness to the west side at Ferry House, although queues can be horrendous in summer. Timetables are available at cumbria.gov.uk. For details of lake cruises see: Windermere Lake Cruises (windermere-lakecruises.co.uk); Coniston Launch (conistonlaunch.co.uk); Keswick Launch (keswick-launch.co.uk); Ullswater Steamers www.ullswater-steamers.co.uk

Taxis

All major towns have local taxi services: ask at your B&B or hotel for details.

Know before you go

They’re tiny in global terms, but the Lakeland fells aren’t necessarily an easy proposition. Faint trails, steep climbs and big drops are all frequent hazards, and the weather can change in the blink of an eye – so make sure you’re properly prepared. Essential items include proper boots, good waterproofs (ideally Gore-Tex or equivalent), plenty of food and water and a detailed walking map; a compass is very useful, but only if you actually know how to use it. Take a mobile phone in case of emergencies, but don’t rely on being able to get a signal.

Traffic can be a serious headache at peak times, especially in summer and on bank holidays, so avoid those times if at all possible.