Luxury cruises: the best ships

Sea Dream 1 caters to just 56 couples on its cruises Photo: ALAMY

Douglas Ward, author of the Berlitz Guide to Cruising, picks his favourite luxury cruise ships – from vintage tall ships to expedition cruisers. 

The word luxury is overused and often misinterpreted. Luxury cruises are not always about the largest, newest or most facility-rich vessel afloat, or even the number of cabins with balconies (some small ships are too low to the waterline to have them). Yes, it is about the quality of the food, entertainment and surroundings, but also intangibles such as service, personal recognition by the crew and delivery of the best level of hospitality. With all this taken into account, I give you my personal favourites.

Europa, Hapag-Lloyd Cruises
 

Passengers 400, Crew 280

This ship, which has contemporary but restrained décor, is all about high style (unusually for a small ship, most of the public rooms are two decks high), in a more formal setting, with many maritime traditions continued. There are formal, dress-up nights as well as informal, casual evenings.

But what passengers really love is the food, the outstanding service and attention to detail. Europa is the only cruise ship in the world with a three-star Michelin chef (Dieter Mueller) – aboard for most of the year, running his “Dieter Mueller at Sea” restaurant with impeccable style and finesse. There is no charge to eat in either of the two speciality dining venues (the other features fine Italian cuisine), and both are open for lunch as well as dinner.

The ship operates mainly in German language, but all the crew speak English and each year several cruises are dedicated as bilingual, so there’s no problem in communication. At present, this is about as good as it gets – unless you’re invited aboard Roman Abramovich’s super-yacht, Eclipse. 

This ship, which has contemporary but restrained décor, is all about high style  Photo: ALAMY

Destinations

Europa operates a complete around-the-world cruise each year, going to many unusual ports as well as the “marquee” destinations, but spends much of the summer in the Mediterranean and Baltic regions, on creative itineraries. 

SeaDream I/SeaDream II, SeaDream Yacht Cruises

Passengers 112, Crew 95

This pair of pocket-sized ships cater to just 56 couples each. They are totally casual and as relaxed as you will be after a cruise. I recommend the spa treatments, which are well worth the high price tag. Watersports toys (kayaks, jet-skis, etc) are yours to enjoy when the ships feature a “marina” day in sheltered areas once each cruise. Also, outdoor sleep suits are provided should you wish to sleep under the stars. 

Innovations include “raw food” menus in co-operation with Florida’s notable Hippocrates Institute, which is an industry first. These are provided alongside the traditional haute cuisine. So, cruising really can be ultra-healthy. 

Destinations

Both ships ply the smaller, hidden ports of the Caribbean during the winter, while summers are spent in Baltic, Mediterranean and Aegean waters and provide a fine way to escape. All drinks, decent caviar and gratuities are included. 

Seabourn Quest/Seabourn Odyssey/ Sojourn

Passengers 450, Crew 330

This trio of identically sized ships are contemporary and have an abundance of large suites and cabins with balconies. The ships have the highest passenger-space ratio in the business, just a shade higher than Europa. They all have a social meeting space called Seabourn Square – a mixed-use concierge/reception/internet-connect/library/coffee lounge. 

Like the two SeaDream ships, they also offer their own “marina” with watersports toys to enjoy (in warm water areas). These ships score highly because of the high level of training the crew receive, which translates to a high level of passenger recognition and attention. 

Destinations

Seabourn’s ships really concentrate on the Caribbean, Baltic, Mediterranean, Canada/New England, Egypt and Arabia, with an occasional Panama Canal sailing, while one ship operates an around-the-world cruise annually. The ships do not venture into the Arctic or Antarctic regions. 

Silver Spirit, Silversea Cruises

Passengers 540, Crew 370

Silver Spirit is the latest generation of this growing fleet, exuding more style and panache than the others, although its layout is a little disjointed and in the show lounge, 14 pillars obstruct the sightlines to the stage. 

The ship has a number of nooks and corners to escape to, including a fine library, an observation lounge and a cigar-smoking room. Culinary variety is at work, with a number of dining venues and a link-up with Relais & Chateaux. The passenger mix is more international than almost all the other ships featured. 

Destinations

The ship operates an around-the-world cruise, spends summer in the Mediterranean and winters in warmer climes. 

Hanseatic, Hapag-Lloyd Expedition Cruises

Passengers 184, Crew 122

A cruise aboard this lovely little ship is about being in touch with nature and travelling in high comfort, with outstanding food, service and camaraderie. The ship, designed for worldwide, expedition-style voyages, carries a fleet of 14 Zodiac inflatable, rigid craft, each named after a famous explorer, for in-depth excursions to areas (such as the Amazon and Antarctica) that simply do not have landing stages. Waterproof rubber boots, red parkas, boot-washing and storage rooms are provided. 

The décor is elegant, with some of the finest bathrooms to be found aboard any small ship. The ship goes about its business quietly, and carries academic lecturers as an integral part of the expedition team – vital to the success of this style of cruising. Evening entertainment is all about a recap of the day’s adventuring – and what’s to come. 

Destinations

Hanseatic spends winters cruising from Ushuaia in Tierra del Fuego to the Antarctic Peninsula, while in midsummer it usually explores the Baltic and northern European regions, and in between ventures around the South Sea islands and south-east Asia. 

Sea Cloud, Sea Cloud Cruises

Passengers 68, Crew 60

This is no ordinary cruise ship, but a wonderful vintage barquentine (tall ship), with three masts and 30 sails. Lying down in the “Blue Lagoon” at the stern, watching the sails billowing in the trade winds of the Caribbean at night has to be one of life’s beautiful, precious moments. 

The largest private yacht when built in 1931 for Marjorie Merriweather Post, the American cereal heiress, Sea Cloud oozes charm and character. The small-portion food is extremely good too. 

Destinations

The ship spends winters in the Caribbean and summers in the Mediterranean. One of my favourite trips is the repositioning voyage, when it moves between its two main cruise regions. 

Oceana Marina, Oceania Cruises

Passengers 1,200, Crew 800

Larger than all the other ships at the top of the charts, Marina is a ship with some splendid design features and some of the largest suites at sea, with “country house” décor that could easily feature in a glossy magazine. A stunning wrought-iron and Lalique horseshoe-shaped staircase is the focal point of the ship’s finely outfitted interior, while only the very best linens and fabrics have been provided. The ship has six open-seating dining venues, including a stunning two-deck-high Grand Dining Room. It also has a culinary kitchen for passengers, with 24 workstations and courses run by Bon Appétit, the American food and entertaining magazine. Other features include a spa run by Canyon Ranch, and a beautiful 2,000-book library and Illy coffee bar. 

 Destinations

The ship plies its trade around New England and Canada, the Panama Canal and Mexico, Alaska and the Caribbean regions.

SeaDream I

SeaDream I really is the ultimate exclusive boutique vessel – like having your own private yacht in which hospitality, anticipation and personal recognition are art forms practised to a high level.

Best for: Mature cruisers, Luxury

At a glance

With the ambiance of a private club, this ship is for experienced, independent travellers who don’t like large ships, glitzy lounges, kids running around, or dressing up – no tuxedos or gowns are allowed, and ties are not needed. One delightful feature of each cruise in warm weather areas is a “caviar in the surf” beach barbecue.

A “Top of the Yacht” bar, crafted in warm wood, was added to both ships in 2001. So were eight special alcoves set to the port and starboard sides of the funnel, equipped with two-person sun loungers with thick pads (and two equipped for one person); however, there is quite a bit of noise from the adjacent funnel.

At the front part of the deck there are more sunloungers and a couple of large hammocks, as well as a golf simulator with a choice of 30 courses.

Inside, there is a feeling of unabashed but discreet sophistication. Elegant, chic public rooms have flowers and pot pourri everywhere. The main social gathering places are the lounge, a delightful library/living room with a selection of about 1,000 books, a piano bar which can seem more like a karaoke bar at times, and a small casino (two blackjack tables and five slot machines).

All drinks, except for premium brands and connoisseur wines, are free.

Because the ship is popular for small company charters, you may find that the date and itinerary you want will not be available, so you may be asked to change to its sister ship, SeaDream II, and a different itinerary.

Wheelchair accessibility: None
Gratuities: Tips are included in the cruise fare.
Onboard currency: US dollars

Accommodation

There are three types, and six price categories (depending on location, size and grade): Yacht Club Cabin, Commodore Club Suite, Admiral Suite and Owner’s Suite.

Yacht Club Cabins, incorrectly called “suites” in the brochure, are, more correctly, fully equipped “mini-suites” with an outside view through windows or portholes. The sleeping area has twin beds that can be put together to form a queen-sized configuration. In the lounge area, there is also a 20-inch flat-screen television, CD and DVD player, and an MP3 audio player with a choice of more than 100 selections. But the bathrooms really are small.

For larger accommodation, choose one of 16 Commodore Club Suites, consisting of two standard cabins with an interconnecting door. One cabin is made into a lounge and dining room, while the other becomes your sleeping area. The advantage is that you get two bathrooms.

For the largest living space, go for the Owner’s Suite. It’s the only accommodation with a bathroom that incorporates a real full-sized tub; there’s also a separate shower enclosure and lots of space for toiletries.

Admiral Suite is a little smaller than the Owner’s Suite, but is well laid out and extremely comfortable.

You are encouraged to sleep under the stars under the stars, if you wish, in one of the on-deck two-person beds, and cotton sleep suits are provided.

Food and Drink

The Restaurant, is elegant and cosy, yet with plenty of space around each table for fine service. Tables can be configured for two, four, six, or eight. Course-by-course meals can also be served out on deck. Candlelit dinners are part of the inviting setting.

The SeaDream Yacht Club experience really is all about dining. Only the freshest and finest quality ingredients are used in the best culinary artistry. Fine, unhurried European service is provided.

Good-quality table wines are included in the cruise fare for lunch and dinner. Real wine connoisseurs, however, will appreciate the availability of an extra wine list, full of special vintages and premier crus at extra cost.

The Topside Restaurant is the informal open-air dining venue. It has glass sides and a glass ceiling. Informal dining is its theme, whether for breakfast, lunch or the occasional dinner. Teak tables and chairs add a touch of class.

Entertainment

There is no evening entertainment as such, other than a duo or solo musician to provide music for listening and dancing in the lounge. Dinner is the main event, and videos are available to take to your cabin.

Spa/Fitness
 

The holistic approach to wellbeing plays a big part in relaxation and body pampering aboard SeaDream I. The Asian Spa/Wellness Centre, together with a good sized gymnasium and a small beauty salon, has three massage rooms, a small sauna, and steam shower enclosure.

Golfers should enjoy the electronic golf simulator, with a choice of several golf courses to play.

At the stern is a small, retractable, water sports platform. Equipment carried for sporting types include a water-ski boat, sailboat, wave runners (jet skis), kayaks, wake boards, snorkelling equipment and two Zodiacs. The use of all this equipment is included in the price of a cruise.

The sea conditions have to be just right (minimal swell) for these items to be used, which, on average is once or twice during a typical night-night cruise. You may also be allowed to swim off the stern platform if conditions permit. Ten mountain bikes are also carried, so you can pedal away when ashore.

Service

SeaDream I offers fine European-style service in surroundings that border on elegant and refined while remaining trendy.

Cruise lines under fire for high internet fees

Regent Seven Seas charges passengers £37.85 for a single hour's browsing

Ocean-going cruise lines are facing growing criticism over the high charges they impose on passengers for internet access. 

Despite the fact that many cruise companies pride themselves on offering an all-inclusive holiday experience, and with free internet becoming increasingly common in hotels, bars and even fast-food restaurants, research by Telegraph Travel has revealed that every major cruise line is still charging for internet and Wi-Fi access – with rates as high as £37.85 for a single hour's browsing.

More than 20 cruise lines were analysed in the study. Regent Seven Seas had the highest fees. The company charges a "pay as you go" rate of $0.95 (59p) per minute, or $57 (£35.40) an hour, in addition to a one-off "activation fee" of $3.95 (£2.45). Alternatively, passengers can opt for a $600 (£373) bill for 20 hours of browsing.

Celebrity Cruises, Cunard, NCL and P & O were also found to impose some of the highest fees. Celebrity charges passengers $24.95 (£15.50) for 38 minutes' access, or 41p per minute; Cunard charges $0.75 (47p) per minute, or $47.95 (£29.80) for two hours' access; NCL charges $0.75 (47p) per minute, or $55 (£34.20) for 100 minutes' usage. P & O charges 50p per minute or £35 for 100 minutes' access; its charge to send a single email is £2.50.

Four hours of internet browsing on an Azamara Cruises ship will cost holidaymakers $99.95 (£62) – marginally more expensive than on Carnival Cruise Lines, which charges $89 (£55) for the same amount of web time.

The cheapest pay-as-you-go access was 20p per minute, offered by Fred Olsen, while Paul Gauguin Cruises offers some of the best-value packages, with 250 minutes' access costing $0.25 (16p) per minute – although the line does charge an activation fee of £2.45.

Several readers have contacted Telegraph Travel to express frustration at the charges, with some criticising the speed and reliability of the internet access they have paid handsomely for.

"The cost of accessing the internet was so overpriced it wasn't worth it," said Geoff Hebden, 58, from Ipswich, who took a P & O cruise last year. "And yet small businesses, bars and cafés across the world offer it free – it's ridiculous."

Cruise lines defend their charges by citing the high cost of providing the service – internet access at sea is delivered using satellite communication, making it dearer than the same service on land.

"The cost of providing internet access from the middle of the ocean is expensive," said Graham Sadler, managing director of Regent Seven Seas. "As a luxury cruise brand we choose a fast speed, which may be reflected in the charges – but the quicker download speed means it may eventually become cheaper."

In contrast to ocean-going cruise lines, several river cruise companies – including Scenic Tours, Viking and AmaWaterways – do not charge for internet access.

Irish Ferries, which operates services between Ireland and the United Kingdom and France, does not charge, either, even though it uses satellite communication to provide the service.

A spokesman for the company said that it could not say how much it spent on providing passengers with the service, as it could not "separate out the cost of providing free Wi-Fi from [the cost of maintaining its existing] satellite equipment".

Assessing how much cruise lines make from internet charges is difficult: none of the companies surveyed by Telegraph Travel responded to queries about the number of people who use internet services or how much those services cost to provide. However, a press release issued in 2010 by Silversea Cruises – which currently charges guests $0.50 (31p) a minute to go online – claimed that 65 per cent of its passengers used some form of on-board internet service.

"There is no doubt that internet charges provide a lucrative revenue stream for many cruise lines," said Jane Archer, Telegraph Travel's cruise correspondent. "The fact that these connections are often very slow - so you end up spending more - only rubs salt into the wound."

Weakening euro heralds the return of the cross-channel booze cruise

The weakening euro spells the return of the cross-channel booze cruise

The British booze cruise is set to make a resurgence as consumers take advantage of the weakening euro. 

The UK's summer of events combined with the European economic crisis is expected to see a return of day trips to the Calais superstores last popular in the eighties and nineties, trade magazine Off Licence News said.

Large UK-based retailers including Sainsbury's and Tesco closed their Calais warehouse stores in 2010 as exchange rates made booze cruises less attractive and prices fell in UK supermarkets.

But recent favourable exchange rates and the disappearance of competition has given the two remaining large operators in the northern French town, Majestic and the Calais Wine Superstore, reason to believe the trend will rebound.

The Calais Wine Superstore is advertising savings of between £2-£3 on bottles and offering three for £6, the magazine reported.

Off Licence News editor Rosie Davenport said: "The real savings come if you're buying for a big gathering, so people planning Jubilee parties or summer weddings will be particularly tempted.

"Going to France on a booze cruise and filling your boot with bargains was a popular day trip in the eighties and nineties.

"But as more and more UK supermarkets started to offer cut-price deals and the euro strengthened, the savings, by 2010 didn't justify the journey.

"As the euro begins to nosedive against the pound and cash-strapped consumers look for ways to save money, jumping on the ferry or Eurostar is starting to look more attractive again.

"Hopping across the Channel will become even more appealing in the coming months when the average price for a bottle of wine in the UK is expected to soar to over £5 for the first time - a 45p increase on last year because of tax and inflation hikes."

When the euro was introduced into circulation in 2002, UK shoppers could travel to France and get €1.62 for their pound.

By the end of 2008 the euro had strengthened steadily to reach almost parity, only for it to gradually weaken as political and financial uncertainty in the eurozone unfolds.

Now Britons can get exchange rates of €1.23 to the pound, with the euro tipped to weaken even further in the coming weeks.

Calais Wine Superstore joint managing director Marco Attard said: "We've seen a 10 per cent increase in trade in the last few weeks and if the exchange rate goes to 1.35 it will go up by 20 per cent."

P&O spokeswoman Michelle Ulyatt said: "With the falling value of the euro, we would expect to see some uplift in interest for short breaks or day trips to the continent with passengers taking advantage of beneficial rates to stock up in the hypermarkets and supermarkets.

"Over the past few years the strength of the euro has deterred some passengers from hopping over to France just to shop for bargains on alcohol and we've seen a definite trend for people taking slightly longer trips and making the most of opportunities to take a short holiday rather than a quick dash across the Channel.

Costa Fascinosa in pictures

Costa Cruises' newest vessel, Costa Fascinosa, was launched in Venice last week. The ship is the largest in the company's fleet, together with Costa Favolosa, which was unveiled last year.

The ship cost €510 million to build, and has room for 3,800 guests.

It is Costa's fourteenth cruise ship. To read reviews of the company's other vessels

An even larger ship, capable of accommodating nearly 5,000 holidaymakers, is due to be launched in 2014.

Fascinosa is currently on its maiden voyage, sailing from Venice to Slovenia and Croatia.

It will spend the summer in the Mediterranean, on seven-day cruises to Greece and Croatia.

This winter it will be in South America, visiting Brazil, Argentina and Uruguay.

According to the publicity, Fascinosa's interiors are a "tribute to people and places synonymous with allure and seduction".

They were also "inspired by classic cinema, movie stars and famous stage plays".

Up top, there are waterfalls and raised whirlpool tubs, and a big screen showing films.

There's also a 4D cinema, a "virtual reality area", a "Grand Prix simulator" and a "professional golf simulator".

Entertainment is provided in the Bel Ami show lounge, and there are 13 different bars.

They include a "Babylon" disco and a "Blue Velvet" piano bar.

Fascinosa has a water park for youngsters, a casino, and five different restaurants.

For more information on Costa Cruises, see www.costacruise.com

Costa Cruises announces new safety procedures

The $665-million Costa Fascinosa at its launch in Venice

Costa Cruises has introduced a number of new safety measures in the wake of the Concordia disaster. 

At the launch of its newest vessel, the €510-million Costa Fascinosa, the company said it is implementing seven new procedures to ensure “the highest safety standard before departure and during the cruise”.

They include emergency training for all guests before the ship leaves port, and the introduction of a real-time route monitoring system.

Changes have also been made to encourage greater shared responsibility, with more crew members allowed to issue orders. The ship’s navigational plan will also be shared with staff during a pre-departure briefing.

They follow new regulations announced last month by the European Cruise Council and the US-based Cruise Lines International Association, restricting visits to the bridge and requiring ships to carry more lifejackets.

Costa Cruises faced criticism following the Concordia disaster on January 13, which resulted in the deaths of at least 32 passengers. The ship ran aground after sailing too close to the island of Giglio, off the coast of Tuscany. Francesco Schettino, the captain, deviated from the ship’s approved route to “salute” the residents on the island. 

In the aftermath of the tragedy, it also emerged that safety drills had not taken place prior to the ship’s departure from Civitavecchia. 

Meanwhile, the chief executive of Costa, Pier Luigi Foschi, has said that the company is prospering, despite the disaster. He said this weekend's launch of Costa Fascinosa was "an important stepping stone on our company’s road to recovery". He added that booking volumes were at the same level as last year. 

Fascinosa will spend the summer sailing from Venice and Bari to Greece and Croatia, before heading to South America in the winter.

Scenic Tours raises the bar

Scenic Tours specialises in European river cruises

The river cruise specialist Scenic Tours has announced that from next year it will be introducing unlimited complimentary drinks for passengers - and the provision of a private butler to serve them. 

The new policy was revealed during the current maiden voyage of the luxury liner’s latest vessel, Scenic Crystal, at a christening ceremony in the German Rhine town of Rüdesheim.

Glen Moroney, Scenic Tours’ managing director, said the decision to offer guests free drinks at all times - as opposed to just at mealtimes - and the services of a private butler was part of the company’s drive to provide a genuinely all-inclusive river cruising experience – with no charges for meals, onshore excursions, Wi-Fi access or gratuities.

“From next year we will be providing our guests with a range of free drinks including spirits and wines at any time of day,” said Mr Moroney. “There will of course be some restrictions. Guests shouldn’t be expecting free bottles of Dom Perignon.”

The Scenic Tours move follows the introduction of a complimentary drinks policy on a number of ocean-going cruise lines - including Seabourn, SeaDream Yacht Club, Silversea,Hebridean Island Cruises and Regent Seven Seas.

Penny Guy, a spokeswoman for the Passenger Shipping Association, said the provision of free drinks illustrated the increasing choices being offered to people wanting to cruise - in terms of the style of ship, formality and the extent to which they need to pay for extras.

It also comes at a time of significant expansion for the river cruising market. Recent figures show that last year some 80,000 Britons took a river cruise in Europe: a year-on-year increase of seven per cent. Scenic Crystal is one of 12 new river cruise vessels being introduced this year in response to the growing demand.