Our column shows you the way to beautiful bread and consummate cake. This
week: dairy-free lemon drizzle cake.
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| No dairy here: Rose finds that goat’s butter 'makes an outstanding cake’ |
Being fortunate enough not to be intolerant of anything except horrible food,
I realise the Baking Club thus far has been somewhat butter-centric. Butter
is to cakes what grapes are to wine, little else will do. But for some,
another type of fat must do. Lactose intolerance is not unusual, and those
that suffer it cannot eat dairy (cow’s milk) butter. So what to replace it
with, especially if, like me, you know that hardened oils such as margarine
are arguably less healthy than butter?
How about “vegetable” oil? The wonderful Italian food writer Anna Del Conte
famously makes a cake with extra virgin olive oil (Amaretto, Apple Cake and
Artichokes, Vintage 2006). Her cake, which includes apple and cinnamon, has
an intense flavour and a firm crumb. It had never, however, occurred to me
to make a cake with goat’s butter until a letter addressed to the Baking
Club arrived from reader Christine Lamsonby, from Romsey. Christine is
lactose intolerant but loves to bake for friends. She sent me a recipe for a
dairy-free lemon cake, suggesting using either goat’s butter or pure
sunflower oil.
I was wary about goat’s butter. A few bad experiences with fresh goat’s
cheeses that have more than a ''whiff of the tail’’ made me hesitate. But I
do use it in a dish I learnt to make in Crete, with aubergines, and love it.
St Helen’s Goat’s butter, available in supermarkets, smells beautifully
clean and has a lovely white cream. It also, having used Christine’s cake
method, makes an outstanding cake, with an incredible, fluffy texture. I
have adapted her recipe to a drizzle cake, having made a thin lemon syrup to
glaze the cake with. It is essential to cream the goat’s butter and sugar
until very light and pale.
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